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The short version
OEM Lexus air filters cost a lot more than aftermarket — is the difference worth it? A side-by-side comparison of cabin and engine air filters on a 2016 RX350, plus how to replace both.
- Generic (aftermarket) cabin air filter About $16 for the pair with the engine filter below — noticeably thinner than OEM, which means less airflow restriction but less filtering material. Check price
- Generic (aftermarket) engine air filter Check price
- OEM Lexus/Toyota engine air filter Reinforced with a wire mesh backing; the creator's pick for the engine filter specifically. Check price
- OEM Lexus/Toyota cabin air filter Has a carbon layer for odor control; noticeably thicker and heavier than the aftermarket version. Check price
Tools
- None — both filters come out and reinstall by hand
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Lexus wants $51 for an OEM cabin air filter — a comparable aftermarket one runs about $16 for the pair with the engine filter. Is the price gap worth it? Here’s a side-by-side look at both filters on a 2016 RX350, plus how easy it actually is to swap them yourself.
Comparing the filters
- Cabin filter, side by side: the OEM version has a carbon layer built in (helps pull odors out of the cabin air) and is noticeably thicker and heavier than the aftermarket one. The tradeoff: that extra material restricts airflow more than the thinner aftermarket filter does — similar to how a higher-MERV home air filter can create more back-pressure on a system that wasn’t designed for it.
- Engine filter, side by side: both use the same corrugated paper design, but the OEM filter adds a wire mesh backing for rigidity — noticeably less flex than the aftermarket filter when you flex it by hand. The creator calls this one close to a tie, but leans OEM.
Pro tip: a more restrictive engine air filter isn’t just a performance question — it can also affect fuel mixture and mileage over time, since the engine needs a steady, unrestricted air supply to mix with fuel properly.
Replace the engine air filter
- Open the airbox. It’s held by a couple of clips — release them and the top pops open, then release a couple of sliders to fully open it.
- Pull the old filter out. Expect it to be dirtier than you think if it’s been a year — the creator was surprised by how dirty his was.
- Seat the new filter. Note the tabs at the front and back of the housing — they need to go in first before the rest of the box seats and clips shut.
Replace the cabin air filter
- Access it behind the glove box, on the passenger side.
- Release the glove box. Bend the side pieces of the glove box in — both sides at roughly the same time — and it pops free, hanging down on its hinge. Empty it out first so nothing falls out.
- Remove the access plate. Pull the retaining tabs to reveal the filter housing behind it.
- Note the airflow direction. The new filter has an up/direction arrow printed on the filter media itself (not always molded into the frame) — match it before sliding the new one in.
- Slide the new filter in, then reinstall the plate and glove box in reverse — the hinge tab goes in on the left side first.
That’s both filters done — a genuinely easy job either way. Whichever grade you buy, the bigger point the comparison makes is: don’t skip a year. Both filters here were visibly dirtier than expected, aftermarket or OEM.
Questions people ask about this job
Is the OEM filter actually better?
It's not a clean win either way. The OEM cabin filter has a carbon layer (helps with odors) and feels much sturdier, but that thickness restricts airflow more than the thinner aftermarket one. For the engine filter it's closer to a toss-up — similar corrugated paper on both, with the OEM adding a wire mesh backing for rigidity.
How often should these be replaced?
The creator replaces both annually as routine maintenance — in this video, both filters had visibly dirtier than expected after a year.
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